Speaker cabs: How important that the speaker sit flush against the baffle?

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3,282
I recently bought a 2x12 cab from Seismic Audio. $129! Great deal! However, when they put the T-bolts in, they hold them in with two pan head screws, which project up off the plane of the baffle.

When I bought a previous cab from them, I bought bigger/better T-bolts and installed them myself, and then installed my speakers, so the speakers were perfectly flush against the baffle. Not too much work really, but I'm wondering how necessary that really is. I'm assuming there will be a difference in sound if the speaker isn't sitting flush, but then again, I'm curious why Seismic would ship their cabs this way if they weren't really ready to go install wise.

What say you? Can I just install the speakers anyways, leaving an 1/8" gap, or should I just bite the bullet, run to the hardware store, and install some other T-bolts and then mount the speakers?
 

ledzep618

Member
Messages
5,162
I dunno about sound but I would think that mot being flush would give the speaker basket a lot more opportunity to flex and possible bend or damage the cone. I would never want a cab like that.

But honestly, you get what you pay for. A $130 cab seems like a great deal until you have to fix poor build quality.
 
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3,282
True enough, but even if I need to buy another $2-3 in parts and spend an extra half hour of my time, it would still be worth it. The other Seismic cab I bought sounds fantastic.
 

onetracker

Member
Messages
385
will the t-bolts stay in without the pan head screws? tap or press them in firmly. once the speakers are mounted the t-bolts won't go anywhere.
 

mlj_gear

Member
Messages
3,412
Can you post a photo? I'm having a hard time conceptualizing what they did. T-nuts don't usually require any screws (other than the one securing the speaker to the nut/baffle).
 
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3,282
will the t-bolts stay in without the pan head screws? tap or press them in firmly. once the speakers are mounted the t-bolts won't go anywhere.

Tough to say. I'll say that if I were building a cab from scratch, they're smaller than I would use, and my intuition tells me that the pan head screws are there for a reason. They don't feel loose necessarily but it's hard to trust them when they intentionally put the screws on either side of the T-bolt.
 

mlj_gear

Member
Messages
3,412
I mean, are they something like this:
60894-2T.jpg
instead of like this:
t-nut-250x250.jpg
? If so, then can't the flange just go on the opposite side of the baffle from the speaker? Or even if it's the latter type, shouldn't the flange be on the opposite side of the baffle from the speaker? I.e., did they set it up for front-mounting, but you want to rear-mount the speakers?
 
Messages
3,282
Can you post a photo? I'm having a hard time conceptualizing what they did. T-nuts don't usually require any screws (other than the one securing the speaker to the nut/baffle).

I've never been able to figure out how to post a photo on this site. If someone could link me to an explanation of how, I could post one. I realize that T-bolts don't require screws to hold them in, hence my question. It's definitely odd, but both of my cabs came this way.
 
Messages
3,282
I mean, are they something like this:
60894-2T.jpg
instead of like this:
t-nut-250x250.jpg
? If so, then can't the flange just go on the opposite side of the baffle from the speaker? Or even if it's the latter type, shouldn't the flange be on the opposite side of the baffle from the speaker? I.e., did they set it up for front-mounting, but you want to rear-mount the speakers?

They're the latter type with the prongs, but you raise a fair point, which perhaps shows my own ignorance; I hadn't even considered whether it was setup to front load rather than rear load, in my head I was just always going to rear load it. If I were front loading it, I suppose it would work!

Durrrr....
 

mlj_gear

Member
Messages
3,412
They're the latter type with the prongs, but you raise a fair point, which perhaps shows my own ignorance; I hadn't even considered whether it was setup to front load rather than rear load, in my head I was just always going to rear load it. If I were front loading it, I suppose it would work!

Durrrr....

I thought that might be the case about the front-loading. Glad I could (hopefully) help anyway!
 

stratoskier

Member
Messages
1,456
I think it's customary that if you front-mount speakers to the baffle, you use a speaker gasket between the frame and the baffle. This is both to get a full seal all the way around and also to avoid contorting the speaker if you overtighten the bolts. I think some people also use these with rear mounts (I never have) which would take care of the issue you describe if you do stay with rear mounting. Here's an example of what I'm referring to:

http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speak...pLbGx7QAi1REVOBECUwmEciyVTIG4eylTKRoCOSDw_wcB

If you use these, be sure to order the right size for your speakers (10" or 12")
 
Messages
3,282
I think it's customary that if you front-mount speakers to the baffle, you use a speaker gasket between the frame and the baffle. This is both to get a full seal all the way around and also to avoid contorting the speaker if you overtighten the bolts. I think some people also use these with rear mounts (I never have) which would take care of the issue you describe if you do stay with rear mounting. Here's an example of what I'm referring to:

http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speak...pLbGx7QAi1REVOBECUwmEciyVTIG4eylTKRoCOSDw_wcB

If you use these, be sure to order the right size for your speakers (10" or 12")

Thanks for the help. My WGS speakers happened to come with some of these already.

I've never front loaded speakers before, I've heard that they tend to be a bit brighter when front loaded, and that's not what I'm looking for in this cab, so I think I'm going to stick with rear loading them. I suppose I just have to flip the T-bolts around and then I'll be all set.

Thanks for the helps everyone!
 

swiveltung

Member
Messages
14,483
Those are not T bolts, those are T nuts. Now I'm less confused, but still wonder how they are holding those in with screws? And what are the T nuts doing on the speaker gasket side? Still makes no sense to me. Your speaker mounts on the opposite side of the baffle from the T nut!
I often glue in my T nuts.
 

BlueRiff

Senior Member
Messages
7,745
Flush to baffle is better. A quick fix would be to remove the t nuts and either replace with flush ones or instead drill new holes and use dry wall screws directly into wood. They work fine assuming it is a front mount speaker.
 

guitar007

Member
Messages
482
The speakers needs to be flush against the baffle, as the baffle is an essential part of the tone of the cab.
 
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cap'n'crunch

Member
Messages
1,398
T-nuts (not T-bolts :) ) need to be on the opposite side of the baffle from the speaker to anchor the speaker bolts. If the Tnuts are pressed into the inside surface of the baffle then it is for front loading. If the Tnuts are pressed into the front side of the baffle then it is for rear loading.

You can pop out the T- nuts and press them in on the other side of the baffle to make it a rear loading.
 

swiveltung

Member
Messages
14,483
One thing, I've found that often you can remove the Tnut and simply put it in the opposite side of the baffle if you prefer one side of mounting to the other.
 

drbob1

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
30,234
I don't think it's a killer issue, the speaker mechanically couples with the baffle thru the bolts anyway. Any kind of gasket that is often included with a rear mounted speaker is going to prevent coupling from the frame to the baffle. Secondly, a rear mounted speaker will allow a little leakage around the edges of the speaker between the baffle pieces... I wouldn't lose sleep about it BUT, did you actually hear a difference when you replaced the hardware last time?
 




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