Speaker Connections: Solder or Clip on?

Blueser

Member
Messages
6,675
It would appear to me that the solder method would probably be the most reliable method of wiring a speaker cabinet, but I was considering trying the Mulder cable with the clip on connectors, and was wondering if those connections would be as reliable. I suppose I could always put a drop of solder on the connector to ensure that it would not slip off. No?
 

sundaypunch

Member
Messages
2,615
I don't trust clip on connectors. If they fall off and the amp doesn't see a load you will fry the amp. Soldering is best.
 
C

Chris - CMWamps

Solderd!!!
:D
Seen too many bad-contact clip-ons on the bench over here, it can destroy your outputtransformer, outputtubes and more if the contacts are bad.
 

Blueser

Member
Messages
6,675
What if you use the clips, and put a drop of solder on the clip to make sure it doesn't come loose? Is this not a good approach?

Thanks,
B
 

Scott Peterson

Administrator and Co-Founder of TGP
Staff member
Messages
37,436
Originally posted by Blueser
What if you use the clips, and put a drop of solder on the clip to make sure it doesn't come loose? Is this not a good approach?

Thanks,
B
Yes it is.
 

SeanF

Member
Messages
499
I always use terminals if I can. I just make sure to squeeze the end tight with my crimper when I make the cable, so that they're a bitch to get on/off; most female spade terminals are loose when new. Solder's better, but the improvement isn't worth the effort to me.
 

sdgvintage

Member
Messages
344
I normally have soldered the wire onto a disconnect and then crimped down the connector part to make it tight and hard to press on the speaker terminal.

I do think I may want to solder straight to the speaker in the future though.
 

RL in Fla

Member
Messages
3,198
Solder . 2 short leads (4-6" or so) if you're worried about redo's or do a lot of swapping around , and go from there with orange wire-nuts .
 
C

Castostrater

I have Mulder cables on my blues deluxe and the clips are really (read extremely) tight. I had soldered wires before but was aprehensive about doing heat damage. The other thing I do is use the smallest smear of non-corrosive soldering paste on the terminals. This prevents corrosion and allows for perfect connectivity.
 

telest

Member
Messages
2,155
Originally posted by QuickDraw
what is soldering paste? is that like flux?
Solder paste is solder in a paste form used in surface mount applications. On a side note...I've had terminals that were on so tight I had to use pliers or side cuts to loosen them. :eek: You can tighten terminals so they won't budge.

Steve
 

GuitarNorton

Member
Messages
1,696
Originally posted by RL in Fla
Solder . 2 short leads (4-6" or so) if you're worried about redo's or do a lot of swapping around , and go from there with orange wire-nuts .
What are the orange wire nuts?
 

telest

Member
Messages
2,155
Originally posted by QuickDraw
cool thx!
where do you get that stuff?
You don't need it, regular rosin core solder will do the job. Not sure but the electronic supply houses, Mouser etc... may carry the paste if you're curious.

Steve
 

Scumback Speakers

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
10,753
In my personal cabs, I solder. However, if soldering, I always strip about 3/4 inch off the wire end, & double wrap it on the connector for a good connection, then solder on top of that to make sure it doesn't move. The solder is there to keep the wire from moving. It shouldn't be the only thing making the electrical connection. You want wire to post/terminal/etc contact for that for the best connection.

In my demo cabs, which see frequent speaker changes, I use the push on connectors. However, I also clean them well first with steel wool, or 3M scotchbrite pads, then I crimp the connector on very tight so that you have to hold on to the speaker tab to shove the connector on. That keeps it from moving, or flexing (if done right) and provides a solid connection, too.

Solder if it's your only cab & you're not changing speakers though. That's my take on it.
 

RL in Fla

Member
Messages
3,198
Originally posted by GuitarNorton
What are the orange wire nuts?



These thangs . Scumbag Jim has it right IMO as far as if you're gonna use push-ons , solder them after you crimp 'em , and ditto telesteve on no need for "flux" . It's a leftover from when solder wasn't rosin core (self-fluxing) .
 

Braciola

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
6,030
No doubt that soldering bare wire to the terminals is best, however if your are a novice at soldering, making a bad solder connection can be much worse than a tightly crimped push on connector.
BTW, I personally would never use wire nuts for any speaker hookup application.
 
Messages
403
The solder is there to keep the wire from moving. It shouldn't be the only thing making the electrical connection.

That's a great point I never thought of, I always have solder on the wire & solder on the connector, & am really binding solder to solder not wire to wire. So how much difference is there in the connectivity / throughput.

Randall
 

QuickDraw

Member
Messages
1,347
it's probably more of an issue with reliability/strength of connection, if you have the wire wraped around the terminal and soldered, it's gonna be strong as whodun'er. if it's just soldered and not wraped then you're depending on the solder joint to hold. I wouldnt think there would be much if any difference in the connectivity, provided you put an ample amount of solder on the joint, and it's not a cold solder joint. feel free to correct me.
 




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