Splittable PUPS in 335?

Discussion in 'Guitars in General' started by joe1871, Feb 4, 2008.


  1. joe1871

    joe1871 Member

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    Hi,

    Is it possible to get a pot with a stacked switch on it into a 335? Is there enough space? I have a 2003 historic dot neck reissue. I'd like to throw splilttable pups into it - is that possible? Is it usually done with a separate switch, or is it just not done?

    Second - anybody changed pups on a 335 style semi-hollow body? Is it really hard? Do you just pull everything out and replace through the F holes or the bridge pup cavity? I assume you use some kind of string to pull the pots and switch back into their mounting holes, or are there special tools? Am I an idiot for trying this myself? I love doing this kind of stuff and i think it would be a ball foing it. Whaty can I hurt. Worst case I take a bunch of parts and the guitar to a shop if I screw it up no?

    Thanks

    Joe
     
  2. RDM

    RDM Senior Member

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    Use push-pull pots.

    yes...it's a pain in the ass....jsut take your time with it. Use the search funtion....plenty of info on it. I made a template for the wiring on a piece of cardboard first, and did my soldering that way. Careful not to drop any solder on the finish. You can use dental floss, but out of the several times I've done it, I've found hemostats to work the best. I also used thicker, solid wire versus stranded. It was easier to install the post back through the F-Holes, because the wire maintained its shape from being soldered using a template.
     
  3. AllenL

    AllenL Member

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    Don't know about the clearance issue with a a push pull pot. If you were just swapping out pups without the need to split the coilds, you don't necessarily have to de-solder and resolder. What I've done on my guitars is, I cut the wire and install a simple connector. This way I can swap out pickups easily, without the need to solder and resolder each time. You do have to initially solder or crimp the connector ends accordingly. Go to an electronics store and find the smallest that would fit. In my case, I was able to contain everything right under the pickup without having to fish into the cavity of the guitar. Hope this helps.
     
  4. Deaf Eddie

    Deaf Eddie Member

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    I've done several Epi Dots, they're about the same kind of PITA as a 335.
    It's not that tough IF they've left you enough slack on the volumes, but if not, you may have to pull the whole harness out.

    The most common thing I've done is swap the pups (usually for S-D 59ers), but here's my Sheraton, which now has the smaller (now-unavailable) GFS Retrotron Nashvilles and two p/p, one for coil-shunt and one for series/out of phase...

    [​IMG]

    I actually had to take ALL of the electronics out, to get this one wired the way I wanted it. I used the kite-string-around-the-threaded-shaft method of fishing the pots, jack, and switch back in. The push/pulls are in the old "volume pot" spots, either side of the f-hole.

    All the pots - including the p/ps - were inserted through the f-hole - tight fit!
     
  5. jefesq

    jefesq Gold Supporting Member

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  6. KRosser

    KRosser Member

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    There was a period in the late 70's when Gibson made them with a coil tap switch in the upper treble bout. I owned a '76 for a while (that I loved in many ways but decided to trade in for an '87) that had this feature. It was cool - a little Tele-like almost.

    I've changed pickups on a 335 but never done the work myself. IMHO that's a job for a pro...or at least someone more coordinated and patient than me.
     
  7. joe1871

    joe1871 Member

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    Hey Everybody,

    Well, I decided to bag the splitting idea and just install a set of Fralins I had instead. I had them in a Les Paul, but I took them out to try a set of WCR's in the Les Paul. (Try those pickups - very very sweet).

    I did it - got everything in and back into their respective holes through the bridge pup cavity. I am a very large guy - 6' 9" tall with hands to match, and this was a real challenge. The jack was certainly the most difficult, being furthest away from the f holes and pup cavity, I had long nose hemostats and dental picks to help. I was a little bloody and frazzled by the time I got done (poked myself with the damn dental probe about 8 times) but it all worked! Test everything before you put in back in - just a WTTW.

    Oh - it was well worth the time. The Fralins are so responsive and articulate. Its a new guitar. I always loved the way it played, but now it sounds like heaven through my BadCat. Just killer.

    Thanks for all your suggestions and support!

    Joe
     
  8. Caretaker

    Caretaker Supporting Member

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    Get a piece of paneling, etc, and make a tracing of the pot layout. wire the pots on there so the wire is the right length when you put it back in. Use a strip of solder or copper grounding wire(anything that will remain stiff, yet flexable. Fish the pots back through the hole. As far as clearance of larger push/pull pots, good luck. Try to find the small ones(size of EMG pots).
     
  9. oscar100

    oscar100 Supporting Member

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    dont do it yourself - used splittable wcr goodwards with push pull pot in a 347

    coooool
     
  10. JSeth

    JSeth Member

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    I have an ES-345 which has been "un"-stocked (?)... I replaced the pup's w/ seymour duncan's; a JB in the bridge and a '59 in the 'board - I put coil taps on each, with mini-toggles between the vol/tone knobs. I like the set-up but would recommend push-pull switches on the tone knobs rather than broaching the appearance (and re-sale value) of the guitar. Has the predictable output drop when the coils are tapped, possibly noisier than normal, due to the hollowbody and lack of extreme shielding inside. The mods were done in the early 80's w/ no problems since then...
    I did not, however, do the work myself... the hollowbody demands mirrors and other intricate installation procedures, definitely not a "plug-in and play" scenario...
    best of luck with it!
     
  11. skylabfilmpop

    skylabfilmpop Silver Supporting Member

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    The trick with the jack is to use a piece of hookup wire, tie a large loose knot in it say 1.5 inches wide, squeeze the knot sideways so it will fit inside the jack and then once inside pull it just tight enough to grab the inside of the Jack. When you replace the jack just pull the wire with more tension and the knot will shrink even more and slip out the jack.
     

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