Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs' started by MHG, Jan 22, 2015.
Ah darn I hadn't realised they were inside. - that's perfect many thanks.
Oh and I would check the voltage since that matters. 240 and 230 are not interchangeable. What does it say on the back of the amp ?
Slinkys should feel slinkier! It must just be because they are new, or I'm imagining things.
Wow, what a guitar. I have Tele's and Les Pauls and Strats and nothing comes even close to this guitar. You have really raised the bar on guitar manufacturing. Now I'm jonesing for the Classic JM Pro HH!!! I must have that guitar. I will not rest until I have that guitar. ...my wife is gonna kill me.
If it is a T without a trem a string tree for the E/B will make them appear to feel looser. (Easy mod for a good tech) For a guitar with a trem this comes at the expense of tuning stability.
I'm about to make one myself custom all Korina. Should be awesome and Flying V ish vibe. Might even do good hardware, black pickguard bakeolite. Black headstock, Korina step, I can see it now gold hardware.
Marked as 240 on the back..
Good, as long as you give it 240 it will be happy.
@Husky, would KT66 tubes work in the power section of the Bella?
Just something I was wondering about the other day.
That is untested, if you can get the bias in range it should be OK but I'm not sure there would be any advantage.
Thanks John, it was just curiosity more than anything.
That sounds spectacular! My pallet is more simple; fixed bridge, HH, Rosewood, Sunburst...she is a pretty thing though!
Is there some kind of weird trick to getting the back panel off the head? All the screws are out but this SOB won't budge.
Try pulling up on the panel? Or swing the bottom up, rather than pulling directly out.
IIRC, the mess part of the panel has a bend to it that goes up and behind the top part of the headshell.
Thanks, I'll try it some more. It seems like it's glued in there it's so tight. I can't get ANY movement out of it from any side.
Having experienced this in person I know exactly what you are experiencing.
What I did is take a piece of wood to push down on the top part of the back panel whilst at the same time pushing it out (using the wood as a sort of lever ) Obviously use something that is not sharp or to smooth to avoid damage and to also ensure it doesn't slip.
Thanks for the tip! I'll give that a shot. Built like a tank.
Hope it helps...
Got it figured out. There's a tiny space on either end of the mesh and I could fit a screwdriver in there behind the panel and pry it up.
Personally, I would not do that. You might bend the mesh, scratch something or worse the screwdriver goes further in and pokes into/damages an internal component.
When I mentioned pushing down on the top of the back panel I, of course, mean the tolex covered wooden part not the mesh.
It was totally fine. It's at the end of the mesh, not the mesh itself.
There's a little gap where the mesh ends (so it doesn't hit the cabinet) and anything small enough to fit in the gap and against the inside of the panel (like the tip of a flathead) while using the top edge of the amp as a fulcrum point gives enough leverage to pop it up. Super fast and super clean.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you but I don't see how pushing down would cause it to raise up. Pushing down on or pulling on anything felt like I'd break it and was yielding zero results.
Either way, we got in! That puppy is tight.
Indeed it has very tight tolerances. Where there is a will there is a way...