LReese
Member
- Messages
- 2,154
I'm going to throw this out to show my experience with the StewMac .5 degree shim...
Those are Rutter's saddles - height screws are well buried in the saddle. Its a very low action by most standards.
The key thing to consider here is that the G-String has a tendency to pop out of the slots without that shim on the Rutters
.
I have titanium saddles, but something did not strike me right about them.
The question is what's the next best step - I'd like to keep a Fender plate and perhaps go to a cold rolled saddle.
Having the neck slot tapered would definitely help, but that body's been altered enough with the PW. If I went this way, while I have the jig/router, I'll get a tech to do it.
The Rutters Bridge plate seems it might be a candidate with the additional thickness. I could also shim the bottom of the bridge, but that's something that would work, but might not be Kosher.
Let's hear some opinions. I have a way of quickly cutting a less severe tapered shim - so that's on the table too.
As always, thanks in advance!

Those are Rutter's saddles - height screws are well buried in the saddle. Its a very low action by most standards.
The key thing to consider here is that the G-String has a tendency to pop out of the slots without that shim on the Rutters
.
I have titanium saddles, but something did not strike me right about them.
The question is what's the next best step - I'd like to keep a Fender plate and perhaps go to a cold rolled saddle.
Having the neck slot tapered would definitely help, but that body's been altered enough with the PW. If I went this way, while I have the jig/router, I'll get a tech to do it.
The Rutters Bridge plate seems it might be a candidate with the additional thickness. I could also shim the bottom of the bridge, but that's something that would work, but might not be Kosher.
Let's hear some opinions. I have a way of quickly cutting a less severe tapered shim - so that's on the table too.
As always, thanks in advance!