Tele Guru's and Tech's... Shim/Saddle content...

LReese

Member
Messages
2,154
I'm going to throw this out to show my experience with the StewMac .5 degree shim...



Those are Rutter's saddles - height screws are well buried in the saddle. Its a very low action by most standards.

The key thing to consider here is that the G-String has a tendency to pop out of the slots without that shim on the Rutters
.
I have titanium saddles, but something did not strike me right about them.

The question is what's the next best step - I'd like to keep a Fender plate and perhaps go to a cold rolled saddle.

Having the neck slot tapered would definitely help, but that body's been altered enough with the PW. If I went this way, while I have the jig/router, I'll get a tech to do it.

The Rutters Bridge plate seems it might be a candidate with the additional thickness. I could also shim the bottom of the bridge, but that's something that would work, but might not be Kosher.

Let's hear some opinions. I have a way of quickly cutting a less severe tapered shim - so that's on the table too.

As always, thanks in advance!
 

walterw

Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
38,223
The key thing to consider here is that the G-String has a tendency to pop out of the slots without that shim on the Rutters
my vote is to get a saddle with a deep enough notch that the string doesn't jump out for that G.

if you make things steeper still the B and G benders may start having tuning problems from the string dragging over the saddle at too steep an angle.

that, and it may be entirely psychosomatic on my part, but i think teles feel slinkier when the saddles are down close to the plate, regardless of actual action. what you have now is as tall as i'd ever wanna go.
 




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