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Tele switch tip that actually stays in place?

Pax

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
3,674
Couldn't find anything with a search. Need a tip that will stay on a 3-way switch. Isn't there one that will snap in place and stay there?
 

blujaz1

Member
Messages
254
Tried everything. Mine always flies off and can't be found until I step on it in the morning with bare feet. Gonna try 2 part epoxy next time it happens.
 

rhinocaster

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
23,727
Several options.....

You can create a shim with about any kind of tape. Build up the shim until the tip stays put.

You can use heavy wire cutters to crimp the blade in a couple of places. The wire cutters are applies to the thin edges and create a notch with a bit of metal flaring. This really tends to hold the switch tip in place.

You can also buy a hot rod switch tip made of metal from Glendale, Rutters or Armadillo Guitar Works. These have a set screw to keep the switch in place. :)
 

73Fender

Member
Messages
3,980
You can wrap some tape around the switch end then install the tip or you can take a file and create some burrs on the switch end. Any permanent type of epoxy etc may be problematic if you ever want to pull the switch

edit previous poster beat me to it ha
 

RAILhead

(real name is Maury, BTW)
Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
4,658
Set screw tip, or just wrap tape around the shaft. Pretty simple fix.
 

walterw

Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
39,206
no need for glue, that just becomes a pain when it's time to change the switch.

take your wire cutters and "bite" the edges of the raw switch blade, to put a few nicks along the edges; that'll grab the switch tip, often to the point that removing it later becomes a challenge.

the other issue is with modern fender round tele tips;

for some stupid reason there's an internal gap between the slot for the blade and the outer "hull" of the switch, which allows a thin wall of plastic to be easily broken out into that gap, rendering the switch tip useless.

i'll fill that gap with CA glue outside each end of the blade slot and let it harden, so that the slot now has its internal walls supported like they should be.

the tip will still just push onto the switch, but now the hole in the tip is reinforced at the ends.
 

tjmicsak

Member
Messages
5,610
no need for glue, that just becomes a pain when it's time to change the switch.

take your wire cutters and "bite" the edges of the raw switch blade, to put a few nicks along the edges; that'll grab the switch tip, often to the point that removing it later becomes a challenge.
This is so good an idea!
I've tried crimping with linesmans to knurl the surface which does work to a good degree, or twisting the blade a bit, but never thought to use a good pair of diagonals to make this notch method happen. Sounds like the best one I've heard of yet. Nice!
To be clear, the idea is to bite into the switch blade side edges, not the flat surfaces. A good pair of diagonals will peen out the bites to make little barbs that will dig into the plastic.
 

walterw

Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
39,206
This is so good an idea!
I've tried crimping with linesmans to knurl the surface which does work to a good degree, but never thought to use a good pair of diagonals to make this notch method happen. Sounds like the best one I've heard of yet. Nice!
yep! (of course, rhinocaster beat me to it by like a minute :eek:)
 

alamere

Member
Messages
1,559
I super glue mine into place, and that usually lasts for quite awhile... until I flick it off at the most in-opportune of times... usually on a dark stage or in a cramped practice space.
 

DRS

Member
Messages
12,247
I used a dab of rosin used as flux for soldering. I have a bottle. It stays tacky for years and you can remove the switch tip if you want. Glue? nada.
 

hunter

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
7,822
Several options.....

You can create a shim with about any kind of tape. Build up the shim until the tip stays put.

You can use heavy wire cutters to crimp the blade in a couple of places. The wire cutters are applies to the thin edges and create a notch with a bit of metal flaring. This really tends to hold the switch tip in place.

You can also buy a hot rod switch tip made of metal from Glendale, Rutters or Armadillo Guitar Works. These have a set screw to keep the switch in place. :)
I do a version of this using the G&L idea for securing their output jacks. I just lay a piece of string across the top of the blade and shove the top hat down on top of it. Same concept as the shim.

I see the top hat with the set screw posted above. Note that these set screws can work loose over time and in an unexpected moment the top hat will fall off. Just be sure to check em for tightness periodically. Or use some blue Loctite...maybe.

hunter
 

Seegs

Member
Messages
10,169
Clear nail polish works for me...it stays in place and comes off if and when I need it to...

Plus I don't have to rip the skin off my thumb and forefinger when pulling my fingers apart


Chow,
Seegs
 

bwa

Member
Messages
265
I like to replace the switch tip with a presta valve cap from a bicycle tube. It fits perfectly and stays on much better than a standard Tele switch tip.
 

Jimmy3Fingers

Member
Messages
3,541
I know Strat tips come in different slot sizes (depending on year of manufacture/supplier)...could probably get a smaller one and tweak to size.
 

59Bassman

Plank Cranker
Gold Supporting Member
Messages
3,162
I have found that barrel tips tend to crack on the underside where they grab the switch. So what I have done is taken JB Weld and a toothpick, and filled the hollow around the edge with JB Weld. Leave the material out of the center (where the switch fits). Filling that hollow ring with JB Weld supports the inner ring and keeps it from cracking. My Tele switch tips stay put now. Flip your tip over and take a look, I'll bet there's a hairline crack in it if the tip is a barrel style.
 

Guitarworks

Member
Messages
10,962
I just put a strat switch tip on my telecaster switch. It's a good tight fit and not going anywhere. I never got along with the barrel knob or the top hat knob. The previously mentioned crimp idea sounds good too.
 






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