The official Two-Rock thread! Post your amps, favorites, opinions, pics and tips here

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs' started by mathiassiv, Mar 20, 2014.

  1. midman123

    midman123 Member

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    Hey everybody! First time posting on the board, also a very recent first time Two Rock owner. I had been looking seriously at buying one for about the last year, and finally pulled the trigger on a 100w SSS Matt's music was selling a few weeks ago.

    Question: I was playing around with the many available settings and just for fun I thought I'd see how much gain I could pull out of the amp (kind of like the Austin Guitar House video for the CLRS), so I dimed the FET and Gain, set on EQ2, and flipped the switches on the Bright and Mid boosts and the Bypass. The resulting "tone" I got was what I could best describe as buzzy/fizzy/fuzzy, and not in any pleasing sort of way. Kind of like what you might associate with a bad tube or speaker or some other component, or if you had a fuzz box with a super low battery plugged in or something. It seems like the volume was dropping in and out a little too as I was playing. It doesnt bother me a lot because built in overdriven tones are not what I bought the amp for and I dont think diming all the gain components is it's intended usage, but I was surprised to hear it kind of fart out like that. No issues on less gained settings.

    Has anyone else with a SSS tried this and had similar results, or experienced something similar with say, the CLRS?

    Thanks!
     
  2. mmarchi21

    mmarchi21 Silver Supporting Member

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    I have not. I typically run the gain at about 2:30 pm but with the FET and Mid Boosts off. I sometimes jump to bypass from there but there is quite a volume jump so I’ve been using pedals when I want more gain. Great edge of breakup at 2:30 pm. With my 4x10 I have a good amount of bass so I have the low filter at 2 pm and the high filter at 10 am.
     
  3. plumberstrummer

    plumberstrummer Fatal3Records.com Supporting Member

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    What speakers are you running into?
     
  4. midman123

    midman123 Member

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    Today I was just using the 2x12 TR cab with the 12-65's in it. I also have an Avatar 4x12 with Hellatone 30s in it (basically slightly broken in G12H30s) and same issue with that setup, so it appears to be related to the SSS
     
  5. plumberstrummer

    plumberstrummer Fatal3Records.com Supporting Member

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    I will try it with mine when I can, but it definitely pushes harder than most amps and is not really designed to do that, as you said. It might just be a touchy tube which only acts fine if it's dialed in right - but if it's tubes I'd just try tube rolling v1 if you have ax7 tubes to try it with.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2019
  6. midman123

    midman123 Member

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    Thanks man, appreciate it! Yeah, I got a few different ones laying around, so I'll see if that makes any difference
     
  7. AintNoEddie

    AintNoEddie Silver Supporting Member

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    Where is the master set?
    Does the faulty sound always occur or just/mostly with certain notes?
    Can you record a short clip of the tone?

    Three quick ideas:
    1) Tubes - I had a set of output tubes that did strange things like you described (dying fuzz). It only occured when I pushed the amp a bit

    2) Room resonance - once I had a buzz/fizz that drove me nuts. I'd swear it was related to the amp setup. Did lots of experiments even speaker swap, when it turned out it was the pick buzzing that I put in between the strings of a guitar in the room. Usually before I crank my amps, I need to fix everything in the room b/c there are so many things that can start to resonate and produce nasty noise.

    3) Is it in any way related to the bypass? Other ppl seem to get great use out of it, but I did not like this mode in any of my TRs. Always fizzy/harsh esp. with OD.

    Good luck. I know how much it s*cks to troubleshoot as it can get really time consuming.
     
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  8. DoctorSpock

    DoctorSpock Supporting Member

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    Just FYI there’s usually an internal trimpot that can attenuate treble of the bypass switch — it can be made quite dark or bright.
     
  9. midman123

    midman123 Member

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    Thanks everyone for the ideas! I'm new to posting here as well as Instagram (just signed up to watch the TR live feed they did), but I think I got the link to these videos in here correctly, let me know if it doesnt work.

    I just took these with my phone so certainly nothing professional. Second video (swipe right) is positioned closer to the amp and I think better represents the crackling I'm hearing. The static and distortion is not the phone mic clipping, that's coming out of the speakers. Hopefully it translates through the post. Certainly not meant to be representative of any attempt at real playing or the way the amp sounds when it's not pushed, just playing all strings open seems to show off the static and fuzz I'm hearing the best. These are not even with the bypass switched on, just dimed FET, gain, EQ2, bright and mid. Master is barely up, 7 or 8 o clock. Even with the FET backed up to about 2 or 3 o clock it still sounds fizzy. Guitar is a '61 wildwood 10 strat, so nothing crazy in terms of pickup output.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2019
    AintNoEddie likes this.
  10. Wyzard

    Wyzard Member

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    Troubleshooting is a pain, for sure.

    Meanwhile: on bypass, our mileage clearly varies:) I use it all the time, on both the CRS and Gain Master 35. I really like it for low to mid-gain, but there are so many other variables in play that it's going to be quite a different experience for any user I guess. Different touch, different guitars/PUs, drive pedals, stuff in the loop, different speakers etc....
     
  11. AintNoEddie

    AintNoEddie Silver Supporting Member

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    Ok I don't own a SSS, but there must be something faulty going on. I'd send the link/clip to TR or talk with the dealer.

    Preamp dimed with Master super low is generally no good idea and can sound unpleasant, but not like this...

    @DoctorSpock thanks, I was not aware of this trim pot. I only know FET gain, OD, Bias trim in the classic layouts. I'll have a look for the bypass trim!

    @Wyzard - yeah, strange. Maybe it will work better if I find & tweak the above mentioned bypass trim.
     
    DoctorSpock likes this.
  12. midman123

    midman123 Member

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    Eli actually saw my post and the issue I'm having and reached out to me yesterday afternoon, so we should be able to figure out what's causing the problem. Thanks again everyone!
     
    Wyzard, Jlopicco, AintNoEddie and 2 others like this.
  13. AintNoEddie

    AintNoEddie Silver Supporting Member

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    Thumbs up! I'm sure everything will be sorted soon.
     
    DoctorSpock likes this.
  14. NateFreezy

    NateFreezy Supporting Member

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    Hi all - interested in purchasing my first Two Rock and looking for some advice. I’m looking at the Bloomfield and wondering what people would recommend between the 100/50 watt and 40/20 watt versions.

    This will be primarily used in my home studio. I have a Power Station to attenuate volume if needed and UA Ox for recording. I generally prefer not to use an attenuator though if the master volume is good.

    I know the bigger amp will have more clean headroom, but still not sure which would be the better option. Any opinions appreciated!
     
  15. DoctorSpock

    DoctorSpock Supporting Member

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    No such thing as better!
     
  16. gulliver

    gulliver Supporting Member

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    That's the wonderful thing about (most) Two Rock amps, they get their goods from the preamp section and the master volume "really" works. No need for attenuation, but might be worth while to inquire into each model before buying ... my guess is that the Bloomfield does not benefit from an attenuator.

    It has been said to buy the highest watt version that you can afford ... but I think that came from Two Rock. I usually shoot for 2x 6L6 when I buy amps (usually 50 watts). I think 4x 6L6 is just over-kill (usually 100 watts) and lower power x2 (6V6, EL84) are usually for specific amp/tone types (Vox, Princeton, etc...). I swap tubes all the time, within my THD Univalve and Bivalve amps. I prefer 6L6 tubes for my (mostly neck pickup) playing.

    ... I'm certain many disagree, just my approach.
     
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  17. AintNoEddie

    AintNoEddie Silver Supporting Member

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    Absolutely. In my experience, I always preferred the TR with low MV to a high MV with attenuation. This applies to all models I tried (SP35, TS1 100W, BD 100W, CRS 50W), with two attenuators (TAD Silencer, SPL Reducer).
     
    Abram4235 likes this.
  18. Skip Reid

    Skip Reid Supporting Member

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    Studio Signature owners...are most of you buying the combo or head+cab? I am wondering if any
    have tested both against each other and found any noticeable differences in tone.
     
    Puneet Wagh likes this.
  19. gulliver

    gulliver Supporting Member

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    I looked up "better" in the dictionary and saw pictures of all of my gear.
     
  20. PurpleJesus

    PurpleJesus Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Bill did my TS1 w/ all the Dumble parts and it was hilarious inside. I can't remember the material that the boards were made out of, but it's that fake wood-ish grain looking stuff. Formica? The goop, all the stuff, it was sweet. Krinard sure as hell knows how to build Dumble styled amps.
     

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