Just look at those smooth neck heels.
I've never played one. Is it like the qualities of a set neck enhanced as opposed to bolt on? More power n sustain kinda thing?
Neck through guitars tend to use maple as the main truss to which everything else is glued; the reason for that, I assume, is that maple is less likely to warp than a softer wood (like mahogany), and a warped neck is a ruined guitar. If it's not maple or other similarly hard wood, they usually use some sort of stiff stringer like the Gibson Firebird did (walnut) or carbon fiber.
While maple is harder than mahogany, it is also less stable. Wood stability is predicted by comparing the radial and flatsawn coefficients of expansion with moisture. The more similar the two numbers the less likely the wood is to warp with time. Mahogany is one of the most stable woods.
I would think that getting the neck angle right would be harder with a neck through design. Neck angle can be easily adjusted during assembly with bolt on and set neck guitars and even afterwards, although not so easily except for bolt ons. Can someone who has built or worked on neck-throughs tell me how you would adjust neck angle?
Cheaper than mahogany? (Fender maple, Gibson mahogany, etc etc.) Color contrast with dark wings in some cases?I think there's a difference between dimensional stability (expansion) and strength. Aluminum has a higher coefficient of expansion than wood, but I think in terms of strain resistance, aluminum is stronger.
I.e. there's a difference between strength and dimensional stability; there must be a reason why maple is almost always the wood of choice for neck through guitars. Your thoughts?