Those of you with neat and tidy pedalboards....

zwiefldraader

Member
Messages
860
Best I did was going for a basic board (Drives, Trem, Delay) and additional boards (Wah, Reverb, Flanger, Vibe...).
This keeps each board smaller footprint and lightweight.
The trick is, using 4-way mini-sized passive patch boxes within the signal path, to keep the perfect effect order intact. This way I can put my Wah (not an extra board) after my fuzz and before buffer and other drives and reverb, other modulation pedals behind the Trem, but before the unbeatable Z-Cable, which serves as a end-of-chain-buffer.
In the end, my basic board without Wah, Reverb, fancy modulation serves me very well 80% of the time and I don't carry more than I need.
Helpful as well was going all-analog so I can feed the pedals by one power-brick, getting rid of a need for a wall-wart and hassle with unstable or noisy electricity.
 

mabinogeon

A really hoopy frood.
Silver Supporting Member
Messages
1,555
Thanks, Jeorge!
:D

Never met the guy, but I do dig the pedals. I think they're about the best combination of performance/quality/value. I can't see spending $400 on some of these "boutique" pedals out there today...
 

zwiefldraader

Member
Messages
860
Oh - and have an eye on the jacks. I try to avoid side-jacks. So I don't have to twist patch cables and can keep them short. All side-jacks might do comparably well. Mixing means messing.
 

4b454e

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
5,427
When putting on dual lock, I like to cut the 2 corresponding pieces that lock together, attach one side to the pedal, lock the other piece in place, then peal off the backing and literally stick the pedal down to the board. Takes the guess work right out of trying to figure out where the board side of the pieces should go.
I started doing that recently and felt like a straight-up genius when the idea came to me!
 

stutter chugg

Member
Messages
294
I don't use Velcro or Dual-Lock, but my experience with Dual-Lock this past week was an eye-opener. Removing gunky old Velcro from used pedals has always been tedious, but removing Dual-Lock was a piece of cake. Didn't even slightly damage the label. Dual-Lock is the clear winner on that front.
 

LordThurisaz

Member
Messages
3,016
No Velcro
• It’s the simplest method for a reason, but I found that Velcro allowed pedals to shift and twist a little. That really bothered me, so I started using Dual Lock. Not only is it cleaner-looking (only under the pedals themselves), it provides a strong hold and I needed less of it. Now I’m using a Temple board, as the modular plates really appeal to my highly structured sensibilities.

Just because it can fit, doesn’t mean you should make it.
• I’ve tried cramming an XL amount of pedals into a L-sized board, and it always ends up looking like junk. If I really need all the pedals, it’s time for a larger board. Spreading out what I do have and use is not only aesthetically pleasing, it makes stomping the correct pedal much easier.
No way, dude. I need top jacks on everything so I can fit 19 pedals on a 12 pedal board! (I'm just joking; I am not a fan of top jacks and make exceptions for a couple pedals, such as the Rat.)
 

LordThurisaz

Member
Messages
3,016
I don't use Velcro or Dual-Lock, but my experience with Dual-Lock this past week was an eye-opener. Removing gunky old Velcro from used pedals has always been tedious, but removing Dual-Lock was a piece of cake. Didn't even slightly damage the label. Dual-Lock is the clear winner on that front.
Is dual lock that stuff that sticks really strongly to pedals with little "bristles" on the side that's supposed to stick to the other half? That stuff is quite a bit more muscle to get off, but doesn't usually leave behind a lot of nastiness.
 

stutter chugg

Member
Messages
294
Is dual lock that stuff that sticks really strongly to pedals with little "bristles" on the side that's supposed to stick to the other half? That stuff is quite a bit more muscle to get off, but doesn't usually leave behind a lot of nastiness.
Dual-Lock is a stiffer "tape" than Velcro, and each side of DL is an identical design of interlocking mushroom-like heads. The adhesive release of the DL is somewhat "magnetic," as large areas of DL kind of "snap" apart from the pedal with a little bit of peeling and pulling, here and there. Nothing like the gum-in-hair fusion of Velcro.
 

FLYING V 83

Gibson Geezer
Messages
5,606
Lots of good stuff here.
I'll add to make sure your power and patch cables cross at 90 deg angles, don't run them parallel.
Self adhesive zip tie squares keep things neat.
A 6-way power strip underneath comes in handy too.
 

kdm1218

Supporting Member
Messages
6,102
My board is wood, so I just took two screws from each pedal, went to the hardware store and bought identical screws a 1/4” Longer for each pedal. Then I drilled through the wood and used two screws diagonal for each pedal. Screw Velcro.

That is tidy, and more dedication to a consistent layout than probably 98% of this forum’s regular posters.
 

Wolfboy1

Grandpa but...Not Yet Old!
Silver Supporting Member
Messages
8,972
Go check out the "Show Your Pedalboard" and "Neatest Pedalboard" threads lots of great ideas and examples.
 

Gaheba

Member
Messages
543
No Velcro
• It’s the simplest method for a reason, but I found that Velcro allowed pedals to shift and twist a little. That really bothered me, so I started using Dual Lock. Not only is it cleaner-looking (only under the pedals themselves), it provides a strong hold and I needed less of it. Now I’m using a Temple board, as the modular plates really appeal to my highly structured sensibilities.

Just because it can fit, doesn’t mean you should make it.
• I’ve tried cramming an XL amount of pedals into a L-sized board, and it always ends up looking like junk. If I really need all the pedals, it’s time for a larger board. Spreading out what I do have and use is not only aesthetically pleasing, it makes stomping the correct pedal much easier.
Dual Lock seems all but impossible to get in my town, unless I order it online. I just use the heavy duty/industrial grade velcro from Bunnings, and have not had any issues that bother me.
Mind you, I don't gig anymore, so I don't need that extra level of "stickiness" (bad word, cant think of the right one at this hour of the am).

Agree with your second point whole heartedly! Keeping space between the pedals means its easier to swap pedals in and out, easier to stomp, looks tidier and is much easier to wire up. And it forces you to make decisions that have you dump what you really don't need.
 

pmjgear

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
166
If you want to try something other than velcro or dual lock, I’m a Temple Audio fanboy. Their plates lock the pedals in place, and they are a cinch to remove with the single screw on the bottom. When screwed in, there is NO movement. Plus, they don’t catch all the hair velcro does. Here are a couple boards of mine:



Anyhow, the keys from my perspective are (1) planning all of the spacing and order out; (2) making your own custom-length cables (I use Lava Tightropes); (3) running as much of the cable under the board as possible.
 

The Opera Panther

Supporting Member
Messages
2,545
If you want to try something other than velcro or dual lock, I’m a Temple Audio fanboy. Their plates lock the pedals in place, and they are a cinch to remove with the single screw on the bottom. When screwed in, there is NO movement. Plus, they don’t catch all the hair velcro does. Here are a couple boards of mine:



Anyhow, the keys from my perspective are (1) planning all of the spacing and order out; (2) making your own custom-length cables (I use Lava Tightropes); (3) running as much of the cable under the board as possible.
Agreed. Big fan of the Temple boards. Here’s mine:
 




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