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Tips for adjusting saddle height on 7.25"?

Seems a little bit more difficult on the vintage 7.25 radius for me. I feel like I can should be able to get a bit lower action without any string buzzing on my ASAT classic. Any advice on adjusting and making sure the saddles posts are even on this type of radius would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


I had the same problem with my comanche ,i wanted low action and the only way is : to set first the neck straight ,(but only quarter turns on the truss rod and not more than 1 quarter turn for a day )than check the nut height ,(some times it is set too high from the factory ) ,the bridge on G&L is complicated (better download the instructions from guitarsbyleo forum !but if its still with the factory settings,better live it that way !)The saddles must be set individualy ,try every saddle until the string begins to buzz on the last frets,than back it up a little ,when you done if the action is still too high ,you can lower a little bit the bridge plate from those two bolts on the bridge ,that do the trick for me ,now the action on the comanche is perfect ! i think that if you love your instrument enough and you dont have any skills you should take it to a Luthier !
hope that helps!


You should not have any problem getting the action as low on a guitar with a 7 1/4" radius and with any other fretboard radius provided the frets are all level and the neck is straight. The problem comes when you start bending strings. If the action is too low it will start to fret out (choke) almost immediately.

If you plan on doing alot of bending, you just have to live with higher action. You can't fight physics.
The 7.5 radius on the ASAT Classic is truly meant for a fairly high string height, so the players can "get under the strings" as needed. My ASAT Classics are both 12 inch radius and can be played more like regular rock guitars.

My belief is, that "7.25" or "7.5" inch radius guitars that really resist choking out have been fudged a little in terms of the profiling of the frets up the board toward the bridge. A poor man's compound radius neck, if you will. Given the really generous width of the board on a USA G + L (Hooray!) in the upper registers, a bit more height is probably inevitable to make everything work right.


I have 3 7.25 radius strats, and i think if you played them you'd agree the action is as low as you've ever seen on a guitar of any radius. Heres how i did it. As was said already, adjust the neck straight. You can do this by turning thea djuster clockwise a bit and then testing the results by holding the high E down at the first and last freats and observing the clearance between the string and the 10th fret. Once you get it to where it's just about touching of barely touching, thats where you want it. Make sure you don't go too far because if it's backbowed it will buzz badly in the lower frets no matter how high the bridge.

The next part unfortunatly you may have to bring it to a tech unless you've done some fret work yourself, but it's pretty simple. With a file that has a handle which i made (tho you can get them like this at stewmac) i begin taking the frets down from the area *around* the 10th fret all the way to the highest fret. I takes them down in the middle but also work the file towards the ends too, but much less than the middle. In other words, i'm creating a compound radius of the frets. When you straighten the neck it allows you to get a very low action, but the one problem you can't get past is that it frets out up around the 12th fret and above when you bend the E string. Doing this fret work eliminates that. anyways, when all is done right you can have a stupid low action on a vintage radius.
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yes, and the vintage fret size helps give the action a even lower feel because while the fret to string distance is the main thing, if the frets are high the action will feel higher. It actually isn't because it's the string to fret top distance that is the action height. But the feel will be much lower than with tall frets.
if i explain this to a tech, would he be able to help (in theory) or is this your own personalized trick?

I call what Dazco does a "poor man's compound radius" fret job. Most techs are gonna be very reluctant to do it because it would be branded by others as "wrong". It isn't "wrong" but techs are a conservative lot and doing practical things gets you in trouble with the "every neck on the planet needs to be releveled and recrowned every week" crowd.

I find this mod works best on "vintage but tall" frets; the wide but low frets on a G + L 7.5 radius neck would not be a good candidate to try this "poor man" mod on.