Tone Pros wraparound bridge question

Tone Loco

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
4,418
Anybody got any good ideas about how to string these up in under 3 minutes per string?

http://www.tonepros.com/avt2g-tonepros-wraparound-set-wss1-locking-studs-for-gibson/

I admit I haven't yet taken the bridge off to inspect it, but from dinking around with it in place, I found that for each string there's a hole in the front wall (next to a bridge pickup typically) right under the screw for adjusting the saddle, and a corresponding one in the back wall - the side closest to the back strap pin.

So you angle the string in over the pickup and... it comes out the other side underneath the back wall of the bridge. Then you retract the string some, re-align, waggle it around for a long time and eventually find the hole on the back side of the bridge, after having it go under the bridge a few more times and maybe try bending the end of the string a little so it won't just shoot under the bridge, which results in it popping out through the top behind the saddle...

There's gotta be a better way. I must be missing something really obvious, how do you guys do it?
 

cap10kirk

Member
Messages
9,869
Is the bridge pickup really high, or the bridge down really low? I just can't really picture the string having to go through at enough of an angle to really cause so much trouble trying to string it up. Maybe try bending the end of the string? I've never had any problem with them, it's a straight shot from the front row of holes to the rear row.
 

COYS

Member
Messages
6,279
I have a tonepros wraparound bridge on my Revstar and I am having a hard time picturing what it is you're describing. I have never had a problem restringing it.
 

1radicalron

Senior Member
Messages
2,052
I take off Bridge off the posts. Insert all 6 strings, then put the bridge back on the posts.
 
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Tone Loco

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
4,418
Put the string in the hole, wrap it. Tune your Guitar.
There are 2 holes involved, in 2 different pieces of metal. though I guess there's no reason not to just skip one and wrap from the under side of the bridge.

Or maybe skip the front hole and insert the strings from up top by the saddles, into the 2nd hole? That would work too.

Bending the strings kind of helps though getting the bend right and feeding it so the bent end points up is kind of hit or miss.

Probably easiest to remove the bridge and load all six strings with total access and visibility.

Glad everyone else has such an easy straight shot, took me way longer than a solid bar wrap tail does last night.
 

doublescale1

Suhr S-Classic, V60LP's, Soft V neck
Gold Supporting Member
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7,704
I took my intonatable TP wrap bridge off my '06 McCarty and went back to the PRS factory bridge for all those reasons, never made friends with it when changing strings, especially the B & E strings. if you have to replace a broken string between sets in a dark bar, or crappy backstage, I found that to fall into the life's too short category.
 

Seth L

Senior Member
Messages
24,303
I take off Bridge off the posts. Insert all 6 strings, then put the bridge back on the posts.

I took my intonatable TP wrap bridge off my '06 McCarty and went back to the PRS factory bridge for all those reasons, never made friends with it when changing strings, especially the B & E strings. if you have to replace a broken string between sets in a dark bar, or crappy backstage, I found that to fall into the life's too short category.

That about covers it.
 

Tone Loco

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
4,418
So remove the whole bridge to change a string, or buy a different bridge.

I figured there must be an easier way but from what I've seen first hand and the posts here, unfortunately it's probably one or the other.

Anyone know of another adjustable-saddle wrap tailpiece, one with a "tunnel" through the bridge for the string, instead of a hole with a corresponding needle hole an inch away on the backside?
 

AndreasG

Member
Messages
2,261
I think the Pigtail has the "tunnels"
I have the TonePros on my 64 Firebird and always take it off and insert all strings. If you break a string at a gig and try to change it after a few beers you might also need more than 3 minutes ;)
 

Tone Loco

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
4,418
I think the Pigtail has the "tunnels"
I have the TonePros on my 64 Firebird and always take it off and insert all strings. If you break a string at a gig and try to change it after a few beers you might also need more than 3 minutes ;)
Any idea if the Pigtail would fit on the TonePros studs?
 

AndreasG

Member
Messages
2,261
Any idea if the Pigtail would fit on the TonePros studs?
No but from what I know the guy who designed the TonePros later started Pigtail so it would make sense that it fits....he's gone a while now but I think the biz is run by his wife now. The Pigtaail is also Aluminum I believe, so I never cosidered it because the added weight is useful on a 'bird
Anothe option could be Faber tailpieces...
 

Ron Thorn

Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
2,752
Pigtails and TonePros have same stud spacing.
The trick is a 45 degree bend, 3/4" from the end of each string, this provides some control. With a little practice it's not that bad.
Another important tip is to lay the ball-ends "flat" on the E strings. If they're not flat they contact the head of the intonation screw and lift the saddle off the bridge.
 

Seth L

Senior Member
Messages
24,303
I believe the correct one of these would fit. I replaced the Gibson non compensated on my Pete Townshend with a compensated and couldn't be happier. Intonation is spot on.

http://www.mojoaxe.com/
 

Tone Loco

Gold Supporting Member
Messages
4,418
Thanks people, not the answer I was hoping for but at least I have some new knowledge.
 

duegatti

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
202
though I guess there's no reason not to just skip one and wrap from the under side of the bridge.

I got the guitar in just that condition, and it produced what I think is referred to as "sitarring" on that one string.
 




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