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Tru Oil over Gibson faded?

9fingers

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
7,961
Has anyone tried Tru Oil over a very well seasoned Gibson Faded (lacquer) finish? I read various conflicting things about Tru Oil over lacquer. Some say it works fine, others no-no.
I have a maple top faded LP that I like a lot that would look & feel great with a buttery Tru Oil top coat. It is several years old with a very thin finish, so I imagine any out-gassing of the lacquer is long done.
 

walterw

Platinum Supporting Member
Messages
39,374
faded gibson finishes are not glossy, but i dunno how "thin" they are.

you might have better luck just trying to buff the stock finish to some kind of semi-gloss.
 

T Dizz

Member
Messages
21,206
I haven't on my faded explorer.. I'm letting it wear. If I were going to, I'd just clean it good then put a few coats on it. There really isn't much to the factory finished on those faded models. Great guitars
 

9fingers

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
7,961
Mine is a Faded Studo model- the finish is pretty thin. I'm thinking of exactly what T Dizz said, just wondering about compatibility.
 

9fingers

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
7,961
What brand of tung oil BFT?
I ordered a small bottle of Tru Oil (I found out the stuff does not keep well after opening) and will try a bit under the pickguard or the rear control cover & see how it does on the Faded LP Studio.
 

AdmiralB

Member
Messages
3,060
you might have better luck just trying to buff the stock finish to some kind of semi-gloss.
All of the ones I've handled have also not really had any grain filling, so buffing is just gonna get you a shiny, pockmarked surface (where before you had a matte pockmarked surface).
 

9fingers

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
7,961
I was reading about this a couple of weeks ago. Virtuoso polish and elbow grease.

http://forums.vintageguitarandbass.com/showthread.php?1315-Polishing-an-SG-Faded
Thanks for the link. That SG looks pretty good. I have read about using Virtuoso polish on fadeds. What I don't care for is the way the lighter polish dries in the recessed pores. That is why I am interested in Tru Oil. I have used it an maple necks and love the feel, and the portion in the pores of the mahogany would dry fairly clear. My faded LP has a maple cap, so there are no pores on the top to worry about.
Another option is Briwax, which dries pretty hard and comes in all kinds of colors to match the pores with the wood/stain color.
 

CharAznable

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
17,268
My SG Faded became glossy after 10 years of daily use. If you take the pickguard off, the finish underneath is still matte.
 

Pedro58

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
6,151
I'm not familiar with your model, but I've seen the faded Gibsons and they have no pore filler applied. Maple might not need it. How smooth is the current finish? Tru-oil works best on raw wood. The suggestion of shellac is good because it will stick to anything. I'm not sure about the T/O. And shellac is almost always yellow/amber, not clear like lacquer.
 

9fingers

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
7,961
OP here.
I cleaned a little area under the output jack with naptha and roughed it up a bit with 600 grit paper. I now have 6 very thin coats of TO on that spot and it has filled the grain nicely and looks great so far. I did sand lightly after the 3rd coat with 1000 grit and naptha.
So far I see no reaction or adhesion problems.
 

AdmiralB

Member
Messages
3,060
Thanks for the link. That SG looks pretty good.
It does look good. I'd be afraid of burning through the finish, though. I polished a Highway One Strat once and went through the clear in no time. Shot a couple more coats of clear over it and it went fine; later, I polished a few more and was smart enough to put more clear on first.

I think that's what I'd do with one of these - I'd shoot a couple coats of clear sanding sealer to help fill the grain.
 

9fingers

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
7,961
OP here.
I cleaned a little area under the output jack with naptha and roughed it up a bit with 600 grit paper. I now have 6 very thin coats of TO on that spot and it has filled the grain nicely and looks great so far. I did sand lightly after the 3rd coat with 1000 grit and naptha.
So far I see no reaction or adhesion problems.
I decided to do it. i roughed up the faded finish with 600 grit and am applying multiple thin coats of Tru OIl to my LP Studio Faded Brown. I sanded with 1000 after 3 coats and am applying several more coats of TO. I'll get enough coats on to fill the pores in the mahogany pretty well, then let it hang and cure for a couple weeks before wet sanding and polishing.
I'll post results when I get there.
 

9fingers

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
7,961
Update, I did a total of 8 coats of Tru Oil applied with fingers. I hung it to dry for 10 days. Then I wet sanded it level with 1000 grit, then wet sanded with 1200, 1500, and 2000, then polished with rottenstone and paraffin oil. I did the final clean and polish with Dunlop Formula 65 (great stuff). It is like a new guitar. The top is full gloss (being close grain maple), and the neck feels like glass. There are still some pores visible on the open grain of the back but it looks fine. It looks and feels like a hand rubbed finish because it is.

 






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