Twin master volume, boost switch

I haven't work on one of those in a good ten years. But the push pull is just a switch so it should work. A sheilded cable might be a good idea to keep the noise down.
Would make it alot more useful.

 

Yes, that's an example of the difference between overdriving the TR's power amp and overdriving the TR's pre-amp.
To replicate the front panel boost switch remotely, 2 signal conductors would be needed; a signal feed and a switched signal return. It's at a fairly low impedance, so a stereo jack socket and cable made from a balanced mic lead may work ok. The remote switch just connects the 2 signal conductors together (or not); it doesn't short to ground.
The front panel boost switch can be left wired in place, just left switched off. Or a switching socket for the footswitch could be arranged so as to override the front panel boost switch.
I can't see any significant difference between the boost circuit of the 2 SF MV TR schematics at schematic heaven
http://www.webphix.com/schematic%20heaven/www.schematicheaven.com/fenderamps/twin_reverb_sf_135_schem.pdf
http://www.webphix.com/schematic he...n.com/fenderamps/twin_reverb_sf_100_schem.pdf
Maybe it's just that the later UL power amp overdrives with a different tonal quality?
Pete.

 

That's what I thought at first, however the signal level is quite high and the impedance is low, 1k max. And there's only 1 gain stage following it before the power amp. So the potential for noise getting in is low.
Does the present Reverb footswitch add an unacceptable amount of noise? There's 2 cascading gain stages between that and the power amp, at a much higher impedance level.
So if that's ok, noise from a boost footswitch described will be insignificant.
Pete.