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Vintage Mahogany Finish Question

Birddog

Member
Messages
3,118
Quick one here. I'm going to buy an LP Vintage Mahogany, but since I'm a sweaty dude and know that the finish will likely not withstand much of my forearm...I've seen a couple of posts here at TGP where people gave them a rubbed-oil finish. I've spent all morning searching, and can't find those posts. Any advice on what to use / how to do it as far as a rubbed oiled finish for the Gibson LP Vintage Mahogany?

Thanks!
Joel
 

Jon Silberman

10Q Jerry & Dickey
Gold Supporting Member
Messages
41,014
I posted essentially the same question, about the same guitar, in this very section yesterday. The majority view is to not f- with the finish, just leave it be and wipe it down with a slightly damp cloth now and then. My own tech agrees and that'll be how I handle mine. You may find that the finish actually benefits from the natural oils in your sweat. Let me know if that's the case, if it is, I'll pay you to sweat on mine, too. ;)

https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/334827

 

CitizenCain

Member
Messages
4,821
I used Tru-Oil for a finish on my VM Studio. It was super easy and turned out well, IMO.

Forgive the overexposed sunlight pic. It looks much better in person.

 

Birddog

Member
Messages
3,118
CitizenCane: Tru-Oil! That's what I was looking for! How did you go about putting it on?

And Jon, thanks for your reply. I'll gladly sell you my sweat by the ounce (price is negotiable, to some degree) in a handy glass container that can later be used as a slide....
 

CitizenCain

Member
Messages
4,821
Birddog, I had the body completely stripped of any hardware while I was doing the bridge conversion, so applying the Tru-Oil was really easy. I simply rubbed it on by hand, with my fingers. There's some great Tru-Oil info on the Reranch forum, http://reranch.com/reranch/index.php. I did 5 coats, then used a little steel-wool (synthetic, actually) to smooth it a bit, then 5 more coats.

I got a 3 oz. bottle of Tru-Oil at Wal-Mart sporting goods area for about $7-8 I think it was. I put 10 coats on the guitar and only used about 1 oz. of the oil. I got the grain about 50% filled doing it this way. You can get the grain completely filled if you like, but it'll take more than I put on to do it!
 

SoCalSteve

Member
Messages
2,276
I wonder how this wood instrument wax from Fret Doctor would work with these finishes if a guy just wants to protect the finish from fading or wear?

In my job I have the opportunity to do a lot of traveling and have met with the wood and fiber conservation experts at many of the world's major museums and learned a lot about oil formulations, waxes, restoration formulations, cleaning techniques, etc.. The wax that I use is a microcrystalline wax used by conservators at the British Museum, Buckingham Palace, Smithsonian Institution, Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Vatican Museum, the Louvre, and other famed institutions. It does not build up and allows the wood to "breathe." Many of the synthetic waxes and some natural waxes (paraffin based) clog the pores and tubules of the wood.

http://www.beafifer.com/fifewax.htm

Main Page
http://www.beafifer.com/boredoctor.htm
 

CitizenCain

Member
Messages
4,821
No, I went about 3 hours between coats. It took me a week though because I didn't have a good work area where I could do the whole body and hang the guitar to dry. I had to lay it on its back and front, doing one side at a time. I'd let that side dry to the touch, about 2-3 hours, then flip it and do the other side to make one whole coat.

I only did the body, too. The neck was getting a great polish going on just from playing it. That's actually what started me off one the whole finishing thing, I wanted to make the body look as cool as the neck was getting!
 

Jon Silberman

10Q Jerry & Dickey
Gold Supporting Member
Messages
41,014
FWIW, I think you did the right thing in your situation. Now you can sweat all over the darn thang with no concerns!
 




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