Vintage Peavey wiring question

[deadhead]

Hey all,

I've got a pretty old Peavey Standard 240 that I am going to replace the 2-prong power cable on. Looking at the current wiring, I believe this will be a simple swap but wanted to get confirmation on a couple things....

Peavey Standard 240

Referencing the photo linked above:

1. Positive (black) is swapped for new cable
2. Negative (white) is swapped for new cable

3. Should I ground green (ground) on the new cable at point G1 or G2?

If I am understanding correctly, once the new 3-prong cable is put in, then the capacitors running to G1 will no longer be needed and could be removed? Are these the same as the 'death cap' or would that be running directly off the fuse?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[deadhead]

 

[Steppin' Wolfe]

https://peavey.com/manuals/standard.pdf

if I am understanding things correctly, the ..022mfd cap that goes from the white lead to ground is the death cap. The ground for the AC input could go to either of those two points, I suppose. The spot where that cap is attached would be handy.

 

[J M Fahey]

1) remove both caps.
technically you could leave the one across Mains and just remove the one with one leg grouned at G1 but in any case it will not meet modern standards anyway, so ...
2) replace Black and White wires with those from new 3 wire cable.
3) ground green wire to G1 soldering tab.
Ideally you should drill a new chassis hole for a firmly held soldering tab, exclusive for grounding.

 

[deadhead]

https://peavey.com/manuals/standard.pdf

if I am understanding things correctly, the ..022mfd cap that goes from the white lead to ground is the death cap. The ground for the AC input could go to either of those two points, I suppose. The spot where that cap is attached would be handy.

Appreciate the reply! The manual you provided is actually for the model that came after the one I have.

I can’t find any documentation of the amp I have and when I contacted Peavey they provided the same manual.

Was hoping they would have some kind of info on this amp...

1) remove both caps.
technically you could leave the one across Mains and just remove the one with one leg grouned at G1 but in any case it will not meet modern standards anyway, so ...
2) replace Black and White wires with those from new 3 wire cable.
3) ground green wire to G1 soldering tab.
Ideally you should drill a new chassis hole for a firmly held soldering tab, exclusive for grounding.

Thanks for the help!

I was reading elsewhere that grounding to chassis was preferable.

What would be the difference in grounding to chassis vs. G1 once I remove the existing caps?

If putting a ground on the chassis, would I be putting a screw into the drilled hole and soldering the ground to that?

Thanks!

 

[Dan40]

Modern code dictates that the ground needs to be attached directly to the chassis and not to a bolt used to mount the transformer. I would purchase a grounding lug and use a small machine screw and nut with a star washer (lock washer) on both sides of the ground lug.

Solder Lugs for Amps | stewmac.com

Solder Lug - #6 or #8 Hole, Locking, Size: #6

www.stewmac.com

You can find these at most amp parts suppliers. The lock washers and machine screw can be purchased at a hardware store.

 

[J M Fahey]

Yes.
Since this is a **safety** ground, we do not want to mess with it at all.

Electrically grounding bto existing "G1" tab or to a new one 1 inch away from it is thye same, difference is "mechanical".
Dedicated grounding tab screw+nut will be tightened, if available a star washer will make that better, you may drop some Loctite or at least nail enamel on it and forget about it forever.

Transformer mounting screws will removed if you replace that transformer and leave you unprotected just when you need it most: you are messing with the amplifier, specially messing with mains wiring.

Admittedly you don´t replace PTs every day, but the possibility exists.

Even more, the possibility that transport bumps shake heavy transformer and loosen mounting bolts is quite common.

So much so that I *glue* my own to chassis, go figure, using thick ("elephant snoot" ) contact cement, which after 1 year or so becomes incredibly strong (I have to *pry* transformers out with some tool, not kidding).

Very often I receive some amp for servicing where transformer is loose, hanging from its wires, the perfect wrecking ball, just what the doctor ordered.

 

[deadhead]

Modern code dictates that the ground needs to be attached directly to the chassis and not to a bolt used to mount the transformer. I would purchase a grounding lug and use a small machine screw and nut with a star washer (lock washer) on both sides of the ground lug.

Solder Lugs for Amps | stewmac.com

Solder Lug - #6 or #8 Hole, Locking, Size: #6

www.stewmac.com

You can find these at most amp parts suppliers. The lock washers and machine screw can be purchased at a hardware store.

Yes.
Since this is a **safety** ground, we do not want to mess with it at all.

Electrically grounding bto existing "G1" tab or to a new one 1 inch away from it is thye same, difference is "mechanical".
Dedicated grounding tab screw+nut will be tightened, if available a star washer will make that better, you may drop some Loctite or at least nail enamel on it and forget about it forever.

Transformer mounting screws will removed if you replace that transformer and leave you unprotected just when you need it most: you are messing with the amplifier, specially messing with mains wiring.

Admittedly you don´t replace PTs every day, but the possibility exists.

Even more, the possibility that transport bumps shake heavy transformer and loosen mounting bolts is quite common.

So much so that I *glue* my own to chassis, go figure, using thick ("elephant snoot" ) contact cement, which after 1 year or so becomes incredibly strong (I have to *pry* transformers out with some tool, not kidding).

Very often I receive some amp for servicing where transformer is loose, hanging from its wires, the perfect wrecking ball, just what the doctor ordered.

Thank you both and thank you @J M Fahey for following up for additional questions I had.

Really appreciate the information and help