Wah inductor questions

Nathan

Member
Messages
735
Hey all, this summer I had to replace my beloved RMC3FL whose pot broke and was never the same with a Hot potz 2. This was my 5th Teese and 4th RMC3!

I found a mint Clyde Deluxe locally and it's pretty solid but I wasn't bonding with it so I just got a Homebrew Electronics Medicine Bawl in today. Lo and Behold! It rips in a major way. Keeping the back off, I was tweaking the trim pots and somehow bumped the yellow inductor and it's coming loose. To make things worse, the sound changed and I haven't been able to get it back yet!

Now I'll probably need a new inductor but while I'm at it, I thought why not taste-test what's out there? Has anyone here had experience with inductor swaps?

While we're at it - wouldn't any inductor do if it's in the right range?

Thanks
 
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zombiwoof

Supporting Member
Messages
5,685
Hey all, this summer I had to replace my beloved RMC3FL whose pot broke and was never the same with a Hot potz 2. This was my 5th Teese and 4th RMC3!

I found a mint Clyde Deluxe locally and it's pretty solid but I wasn't bonding with it so I just got a Homebrew Electronics Medicine Bawl in today. Lo and Behold! It rips in a major way. Keeping the back off, I was tweaking the trim pots and somehow bumped the yellow inductor and it's coming loose. To make things worse, the sound changed and I haven't been able to get it back yet!

Now I'll probably need a new inductor but while I'm at it, I thought why not taste-test what's out there? Has anyone here had experience with inductor swaps?

While we're at it - wouldn't any inductor do if it's in the right range?

Thanks
You should talk to Joe Gagan, he makes great repro inductors and pots for wahs in several vintage styles, including Icar taper wah pots in 100k and 200k that wiil probably be great in your Teese. I take it Teese no longer supplies his pots for his wahs?.
Joe has great wah knowledge and is a great guy, I'm sure he can steer you toward a perfect solution for both problems. His wahs are awesome. He posts here on the forum too.
Al
 

JLee

Supporting Member
Messages
2,636
Halo inductors tend to be smoother and less aggressive/growly than Fasels and Stack of Dime inductors. I think they all measure out to around 500mH. Red Fasels tend to sound more aggressive than yellow.

Don’t know what makes them sound different. Guessing it’s the magnetic core that they are wound around. Could also be the gauge of wire used in the inductor as well. Much like guitar pickups.
 

Chugs

Member
Messages
168
The mh reading of an inductor, in combination with the rest of the circuit, will affect the range of the sweep. So a 500mh inductor will sweep in a different range to a 600mh inductor. Current production Dunlop red Fasel inductors vary but tend to fall in the 600mh to 680mh range. Yellow in the 580 - 650mh range. You can compensate by altering the value of the sweep cap.

I think the Yellow is bit more vintage sounding than the Red.

Vintage inductors tended to fall in the 500-500mh range. Current boutique offerings are generally in that range too.

DC resistance can affect the tone too.
 
Messages
2,925
I think the Yellow is bit more vintage sounding than the Red.
That's interesting as Geoffrey Teese started to use Dunlop's red fasel inductors in his most recent RMC10 builds as his old inductor supplier shut down. I have one of those and I don't think it gets any more vintage sounding than that one at least from my experience with some actual vintage Vox specimen and what I hear from recordings.
 

VenusWitchFX

Member
Messages
17
Old and new fasels, the round black plastic Dunlop/Vox inductors & new Chinese Vox inductors are all torroid rings which mechanically are very different to a traditional pot core inductor as found in the halos, trash/film cans and stacks of dimes. If you want vintage flavours ideally you need the pot core variety. In my experience, not only does the mH and resistance/ capacitance make a difference, so do the physical aspects of the Inductor, the size and type of the ferrites, the winds of wire. A pot core with a coil encapsulated by the ferrite sounds different to a torroid ring that has the wire wrapped over it in my experience.
 

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Chugs

Member
Messages
168
That's interesting as Geoffrey Teese started to use Dunlop's red fasel inductors in his most recent RMC10 builds as his old inductor supplier shut down. I have one of those and I don't think it gets any more vintage sounding than that one at least from my experience with some actual vintage Vox specimen and what I hear from recordings.
While the inductor is important in a wah, the way the overall circuit is tuned, and the taper of the pot, contribute massively to the final sound and Geoffrey knows what he is doing when it comes to tuning a wah. I am sure he could make any decent inductor work in his wah pedals with a few tweaks.
 

VenusWitchFX

Member
Messages
17
It’s a factory gapped TDK/EPCOS N48 core, which has less effective permeability from the get go and will need more winds to get it to hit 500 mH or what ever mH he was after..... it’s on a “as per usual” TDK Epcos tag board / ring clip that many halo builders use. Some of the original vintage halos in Clydes were factory gapped cores and some others were not factory gapped so each style of vintage halo needed different windings to get the 500 mH (or there abouts). People seem to favour certain vintage halos over others so Roger probably new this and thus decides to use a gapped core and then had them wound appropriately to get whatever mH he wanted.
 

Nathan

Member
Messages
735
All helpful - thanks everyone!

I see lots of inductors resemble a small transformer/choke but the ones used in wahs are always round. Any idea why that would be??

I am very tempted to try different values or even put 2 on a toggle switch.
 




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