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what kind of glue to hold a nut in place?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Guitar & Bass Technical Discussion' started by 6789, Jun 11, 2008.

  1. Rosewood

    Rosewood Member

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    I use the thick super glue for the extra few seconds it allows for positioning, a couple of drops with no squeeze out. And yes Walter, no tambourine players allowed.
     
  2. GtrDr

    GtrDr Member

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    Two drops of super glue here.
     
  3. Oatie

    Oatie Member

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    Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack, 1,500 cps, 3 oz. Bottle with a bottle of spray quick set. Don't use the quick set spray, just the glue. This is one of the best super glues available, amazon has it. I always use a new toothpick to apply what I need in the right spot. 3 drops on the rosewood side and nothing on the bottom. This way a slight tap will remove it in the future.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2017
    Khromo likes this.
  4. jkats

    jkats Member

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    Couple of drops of Elmer’s just to set the nut in place and make it easy to remove when needed.
     
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  5. walterw

    walterw Gold Supporting Member

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    nice nine year necro-bump :eek: but still interesting for the glue brand. i've more recently been using the gluboost stuff and like it a lot, they have formulations made specifically for finish drop-fills and their accelerator goes on dry and doesn't cause the white foaming, meaning you can spray it right on a drop-fill with no fear.

    their "thin" is sort of the "regular" CA you'd use for stuff like gluing on a nut. (discovered the "fill & finish" variations are tops for that but not for regular superglue tasks.)
     
  6. K-Line

    K-Line Gold Supporting Member

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    I like superglue. It has a lower shear strength than regular Elmers or the likes. You can tap the nut sideways if you need to remove it. Titebond is good but sometimes it is too strong and the nuts breaks of and then out come the chisels.
     
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  7. Chris Scott

    Chris Scott Silver Supporting Member

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    I use either cyano or LMI glue, with Cyano being probably the most frequently used. As with anything else in guitar repair/building, a good plan and a steady hand are imperative when using cyanoacrylate adhesives.

    The LMI glue dries hard (and imo is arguably the best water-based adhesive available outside real hide glue), so anyone claiming it's a tone-suck might want to think again.:cool::D
     
  8. Chris Scott

    Chris Scott Silver Supporting Member

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    :aok

    ...and almost always when someone slathered the entire contact patch with the stuff....hence the "saw through the center and collapse it" royal pita repair procedure.
     
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  9. semi-hollowbody

    semi-hollowbody Member

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    works out as all the toothpicks I have at home are made from tonewood
    I wont dig steak or chicken out of my chompers with anything less
     
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  10. Jeff G.

    Jeff G. Member

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    Don t worry about getting superglue off if you've used too much. You can get a debonder for the stuff now. Great for decoupling your stuck-together fingers too. Amazon sell it, as I'm sure other good retailers do too.
     
  11. Ayrton

    Ayrton Member

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  12. jens5

    jens5 Silver Supporting Member

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    Bend the crap on your Low E and you'll see why.
     
  13. mmn

    mmn Member

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    I usually use what they used to call model airplane glue - the smelly, clear stuff in a tube used to glue plastic airplane parts together. Just a couple of drops. Slower set time, holds firmly, yet releases with a couple of light taps. You have to be extremely careful. Unlike Titebond it will mess up a finish.
     
  14. KGWagner

    KGWagner Member

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    That's because model cement is not really a glue. It's a gelled solvent (usually toluene) that melts polystyrene plastic. When the solvent boils off, the plastic re-hardens and you have a joint.

    You're right - it's dangerous stuff around a finish. Toluene is a pretty hot solvent. I'm sure it would melt binding as well.

    Usually, some kind of wood glue works best. I use Titebond II, but there are others. That stuff dries hard but is fairly benign, which is good because all you really want to do is keep the part from moving easily. CA is usually too much - you need to be able to knock the nut off clean later for replacement - while a dry fit is insufficient, as it's liable to move under normal stresses.
     
  15. walterw

    walterw Gold Supporting Member

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    same as with the model airplane glue, it'll wreck nitro lacquer immediately so be careful. (CA solvent is fine on most poly though)
    too much CA is too much, sure :)

    a little CA is perfect because you can indeed knock the nut back out cleanly
     
  16. Jack Daniels

    Jack Daniels Supporting Member

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    45,000 views on what type glue for a nut! That blows my mind. BOOM
     
  17. KGWagner

    KGWagner Member

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    Hehe! Inquiring minds want to know! Besides, this is TGP. No subject is too small to beat to death 500 times over ;)
     
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  18. Jason_77

    Jason_77 Member

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    While we're all here... What do you guys like for nylon nuts? Will anything even stick to it or do you just rely on a snug fit plus the downward pressure of the strings?
     
  19. KGWagner

    KGWagner Member

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    I recommend not using nylon nuts. They're too soft.
     
  20. walterw

    walterw Gold Supporting Member

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    regardless of nut material, just no.

    a spot of CA just like anything else.
     

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