What things are you REALLY picky about on a guitar?

BlueEnamel

Member
Messages
10
Tuning stability, fretwork, and fit and finish.
Tuning stability: I’m mostly talking day to day changes due to humidity, and not tuner, but, or bridge issues. I have a 1986 LP custom that is solid as a rock. Minor changes due to humidity. I also have an Ibanez GIO 60 that is a mess from day to day. It’s just annoying.

Fretwork: I can fix it, or get it fixed, but I won’t buy a guitar w a crappy dress on the fret ends. It reflects on the lack of detail. Same w a ****** setup when it’s on the wall. That probably prevents more people from sticking w guitar than anything else (besides that you actually have to put in the right kind of time to get good).

Fit and Finish: This is a bit variable. If it’s a $200 guitar, I expect it to be decent, but not necessarily amazing in the“fit” department. The finish should be great though. No visible defects, chips, scratches, etc. If the guitar is $1000+, the fit better be perfect.
 

Phil3

Member
Messages
577
You should say the brand - Ibanez!!! Just kidding~
In fact DO NOT forget that the fret material is quite important, I would always put stainless steel frets as A MUST due to the fact that getting fret dressed or refret by an experienced luthier will cost a lot.
I do like Ibanez quite alot. I've never played a guitar with SS frets. Really should. Maybe when I replace the neck on my strat I'll get one with Ss frets. Not that I have the money for that at the moment.
 

Black&Blue

Member
Messages
452
If I was considering buying a guitar for myself, everything, all the details...otherwise, if it's someone else's guitar that I'm borrowing, only playability, function, and sound matter.
 

just_one_more

Member
Messages
1,037
Fret height is critical to me. They need to be in the upper 40s at minium. Width is not as critical, but prefer some of the newer narrow tall frets dimensions. About 1/2 of my guitars have been refretted. Fret over binding. I buy most of my guitars used and factor the refret into the price I am willing to pay. I am willing to "lose" money if the guitar grabs me. I rarely sell them anyhow. As far as neck shape and feel, I am not that picky as long as it is not super slim or super boat sized. Looks matter, and I typical stick with the classics. Aside from SGs I only have a single guitar of each type I like, and I look for the best example I can afford. 1 strat, 1 Tele, 1 335, 1 Doujet, 1 Axis etc.
 

atarilovesyou

Member
Messages
311
Peronally. I am far more picky than I originaly thought when I began my search for a new guitar.
SO anyways!
-I don't like\won't buy basswood bodies. They ding easily and tend to feel far too light for their size.
-I'm not buying it if it doesn't have 24 frets.
-I want a humbucker in at least the bridge.
-NO GLOSSY NECKS! I hate glossy necks, little bits of skin and sweat always stay behind and it feels weird. My hand doesn't glide across them as easily as it would on an unfinished neck or a satin neck.
-Made in Japan.

In short... Ibanez guitars.
So you like Ibanez but you DON'T like basswood. Hmm. Odd. They are like 'the' basswood guitar company, lol.
 

dividedsky

Member
Messages
4,257
Everything. It's why I currently don't have an electric. Too hard to get what I want without spending several thousand dollars. You'd think I could find the right Fender for me under 2k but they don't make it. Gonna have to do the partscaster thing.
 

Stratburst70

Member
Messages
5,515
- Neck shape obviously. I hate playing on anything skinnier than .835 at the nut.

- Body resonance. If I can strum an open position chord and feel the body resonate against my chest, that’s ideal. The bare minimum is when I pluck the B string while clutchingthe guitar near the output jack. If I can feel the body vibrate when I do that, it’s a good one.

Anything else I can work with.
 

GenoVox

Silver Supporting Member
Messages
3,213
Main thing for me is acoustic ring and resonance... even on a solidbody

If a guitar has a low end that just kinda “thuds” and the highs sound dead, even with new strings.... then no amount of mods or pickup swaps will fix it

Next would be neck shape/feel and overall weight... everything else can be upgraded or tweaked
 

SoPhx

Member
Messages
291
Beside the usual attributes, I really like to have a well adjusted string radius. Helps with bending and slide playing.
 

Jazzy JP

Member
Messages
5
Sustain. If any note on the guitar dies a short time after sounding, it's fired. Also why I don't own a nylon string. Love their tone but notes practically fall on the sword immediately
 

TeleDawg

Supporting Member
Messages
111
I am more about nut width (1.65"), fretboard radius (9.5 - 10"), neck profile (Heavy C or Large Soft V), and depth at 1st and 12th frets (.850" - .950" unto .880" - .980"), string spread at the bridge (Fender width, not narrow Gibson), and weight (6 lbs 8 oz. to 7 lbs). Ash bodies or weight-relieved mahogany.
 

arthur rotfeld

Supporting Member
Messages
7,049
Stainless frets
Slim neck
12"—16" radius
Nearly all the guitars I've acquired in the last 15 years fit that bill, save one acoustic with nickel-silver frets.
 

Brad2

Member
Messages
560
The scale lenght, I like shortscale. And I should be picky about the tuning stability but I don't have the money to be picky about that. :eek: And I am picky about the radius., I like 9.5 ''.
 
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8len8

Supporting Member
Messages
13,157
- Must be hard tail
- Must have neck binding
- Must be Les Paul scale length
- Must have at lest 2 volume and 1 tone control
 

sleep

Supporting Member
Messages
2,892
If buying to resell: Margin and originality (no 'upgrades', please)
If buying to play: That it doesn't smell like smoke.

There's little that would stop me from buying just about any guitar. I like variety.
 




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