Discussion in 'Amps/Cabs Tech Corner: Amplifier, Cab & Speakers' started by yoyohomieg5432, Jan 19, 2008.
whats a good soddering iron for working on amps? links would be appreciated.
Is that what Sodom and G'morrah got busted for?
I have one that I've had forever. Typical pistol type but has a light on it that turns on when you pull the trigger.
The light is VERY helpful. I would recommend getting one that has a light.
This looks like an updated version of the kit that I bought years ago:
This one looks really cool. Has a built in feeder for the solder. I often find myself holding the solder in my mouth and feeding that way.
Big selection here: http://www.cn-gluegun.com/SolderingGun.htm
Grabbed one of these on recomendation of a fellow tech:
to replace a Weller station. Been doing 10 hr days on a repair bench for over a year without a hiccup-price is excellent as well.
This is a good budget iron-
Good enough for repairs, hobby interval builds.
Knowing the Tao of soldering is your best soldering tool......
Been using a Weller adjustable heat station for 12 years, works great and I can get replacement tips at the local electronics store.
my dad has an older weller one as well. he said he wants to get a new one because the tip on the weller is too bulky, and would be too hard to work on small electric parts. would you agree? i'd only be using it for work on guitar amps
do u use the one shown in the link above or a different one?
Get a hakko 936 and don't look back.
I would not recommend a soldering gun.
Find a kester 44 63/37.
Solder like a mad dog.
will that hakko come with an appropriate soldering tip?
what is kester 44 63/37?
"I often find myself holding the solder in my mouth and feeding that way."
such a manly man
Hakko 936: http://shop3.outpost.com/product/45...8j8V1Yx5w**.node2?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
Kester is a brand. 44 is like a model number. 63/37 is the ratio of tin/lead. 60/40 is common. 63/37 has what some feel is the advantage of going from a liquid to a solid almost instantly, giving your work no time to shift.
I bought the Hakko. The tip that comes stock is pretty narrow, but it works. I also picked up a wider chisel tip. HMC electronics had the best deal I could find at the time.
and this comes with everythingi need?
do i ned to buy that soldering wire as linked in a couple posts above as well?
It doesn't include the solder, you'll still need to get that.
2 final questions
1) i found out that there's 3 types of hakko 936's
936-11 (Small Iron)
936-12 (Medium Iron)
936-13 (Large Iron)
whats the need fo different iron's and which one should i get for amp work?
2) i have some solder laying around here somewhere, does it need to be that kester stuff or can any solder be used?
in other words, does the quality of the kester make it better for in amps?
I wouldn't advise that; one of the constituents of solder is lead.
+1 for the Hakko. Just advised a friend to buy one who asked me.
I'm still using an Ungar station that's got to be 20 years old. Tip is still good!
On advice from an old amp tech, I picked up a new Weller 25W iron from Ace Hardware for $16. It's much better than the Radio Shack one that I used and used and used some more.
936-12 one most get. It's the one HMC has the good price on.
Solder doesn't have to be made by Kester. The important part is the ingredients. I don't think you want silver solder, and there's a really acidic one for plumbing whose name I can't think of off hand. Find the solder you have and let us know what it says on the box.
My experience was that I needed to add a few things to get to the free shipping level, so I bought an extra tip, flux pen, a solder sucker, and solder. Stuff I needed anyway.
Do a search on this topic as its been discussed a few times. The hardcore types like myself are in general agreement that you'll need two wands. One low-wattage for wiring (25W-35W) and another with a very LARGE tip for chassis work (65W). That'll cover off most every contingency.
Put that gun away, you're going to hurt somebody with it.